RUBBER NEWS

Techniques for Installing Rain Guards and Rain Shelters on Rubber Trees

Posted on by content02.vinahugo
13
Oct

A step-by-step guide to installing rain guards and rain shelters on rubber trees to prevent latex dilution, reduce bark damage, and maintain tapping efficiency during rainy seasons.

a. Materials (Figure 9.1)

  • Rain guard: Made from polyethylene (PE) sheets (0.3 mm thick) or foam sheets (1.0 mm thick).

    • Crescent-shaped, 4–5 cm wide.

    • Length and curvature depend on tree girth and tapping cut length.

    • The guard should extend 10 cm beyond both ends of the tapping cut (total 20 cm longer).

  • Tapping face shelter: Made from 0.3 mm PE or similar material.

    • Crescent-shaped, 14–16 cm wide.

    • Length and curvature adjusted according to trunk size and cut length.

    • Must extend 15–20 cm beyond the rear end and 15 cm beyond the front end of the tapping cut (total 30–35 cm longer).

  • Cup cover: Made from 0.3 mm PE sheet, 33–35 cm long and 26 cm wide, or use a cover film 50 × 60 cm.

  • Tools: Stapler (No.10 pins), bark scraper, soap, roofing nails, adhesive (bitumen-based), container for glue.

  • Adhesive: Flexible, waterproof, strong bonding, and non-toxic to rubber bark. Recommended: thick bitumen glue.

b. Technique for Attaching the Rain Guard

1. Installation Position

  • Attach the rain guard above the tapping cut at a 32°–34° slope relative to the horizontal axis, for both upward (U) and downward (D) cuts.

  • For downward tapping (D):

    • In the first and second tapping years, fix the guard on virgin bark, 5–7 cm above the initial cut.

    • From the third year onward, reposition annually onto the regenerated bark above the previous year’s tapping zone.

    • The same applies when changing from BO-1 to BO-2 panels.

  • For upward tapping (U):

    • Fix the guard 5 cm above the estimated bark consumption line of the current year, measured from the rear side.

2. Installation Steps

  1. Clean the bark:

    • Use a scraper to clean a 2–3 cm wide strip around the mounting area, extending 10–15 cm beyond both ends of the tapping cut.

    • Scrape two vertical waterproof lines, 3–5 cm outside the tapping boundaries (front and rear), to prevent rainwater infiltration.

    • Avoid deep scraping to prevent bark cracking (Figure 9.2).

  2. Apply adhesive:

    • Dip your hands in soap water before handling glue.

    • Roll a small amount of thick glue in your palm and apply a continuous strip from the rear side to the front side (or vice versa if the position is low).

    • Extend the glue 10 cm beyond both ends of the cut.

    • Apply two vertical glue lines along the waterproof boundaries (Figure 9.3).

  3. Fix the rain guard:

    • Start stapling at the front end with two close staples.

    • Press the rain guard along the glue line and staple at the rear end in the same way.

    • Add 2–3 staples evenly in the middle section.

    • On regenerated bark, staple every 3–5 cm, keeping 2–3 mm from the edge of the guard (Figures 9.4–9.6).

    • Add extra staples for uneven trunk surfaces (bulges or hollows).

  4. Reinforcement:

    • Inspect after 2–3 months, reapply glue on any leaking sections.

    • If leakage occurs due to uneven bark or loose staples, add more staples and seal with additional glue.

c. Technique for Installing Tapping Face Shelters

1. Positioning

  • Attach the shelter above the tapping cut with a 30°–34° slope for both upward and downward cuts.

    • Downward cut (D): Shelter positioned 8–10 cm above the tapping cut.

    • Upward cut (U): Shelter fixed 5–8 cm above the estimated bark consumption line, measured from the rear side.

2. Installation Steps

  1. Clean the surface:

    • Scrape a 2–3 cm wide band on the bark, extending 5 cm beyond the rear and 15 cm beyond the front boundary.

    • Scrape diagonally downward at 45° for 10–15 cm, and make two vertical waterproof lines 3–5 cm away from the tapping edges (Figure 10.1).

  2. Attach the shelter:

    • Fix the front edge with two close staples, 15 cm beyond the front boundary.

    • Press the lower edge tightly against the bark and staple every 3–5 cm, continuing 5 cm past the rear boundary (Figures 10.2–10.3).

    • Then fold the shelter down to fit snugly against the trunk (Figure 10.4).

    • Bend the rear end downward at a 45° angle and continue stapling inside (Figure 10.5).

  3. Seal the joints:

    • Apply a thin glue line along the lower edge from the rear to the front (or reverse for low cuts).

    • Add two vertical waterproof glue lines along the previously scraped edges (Figure 10.6).

    • Lift the shelter slightly to ensure it covers the glue completely, then fold up the upper rim 1–2 cm to create a rainwater drainage channel (Figures 10.7–10.9).

d. Technique for Installing Cup Shelters

  • Fix the cup shelter above the latex cup, 5–7 cm from the tapping cut’s front side.

  • Fold both corners of the shelter and secure each with a roofing nail and a staple.

  • Press the nails into the bark to hold the shelter firmly, ensuring a 2–3 cm gap between the shelter and the latex flow channel.

  • Avoid contact between the shelter and the cup to prevent latex overflow (Figures 10.9–10.10).

e. Technique for Installing Cup Covers (Protective Films)

  • Use PE cover films sized 50 × 60 cm.

  • Tie small stones to both ends of the 50 cm side for stability.

  • Fix one end with two staples, 5–10 cm above the tapping cut and 1–2 cm from the front edge.

  • Pull the other end down 10–15 cm beyond the front line and staple firmly with 2–3 extra staples in the middle to hold the cover in place.

Conclusion

Proper installation of rain guards and shelters is essential for maintaining latex quality during wet seasons.
It prevents rainwater intrusion, bark damage, and latex dilution, ensuring consistent production and long-term tree health in rubber plantations.